A young child, only one year old, runs to me and lies down across my leg, ready to sleep. My khaki pants and shirt now covered in bright red paint, drool and other treats, the mom picks him up and cuts his hair. Restraining him forcefully across her lap, she takes a dry razor blade and drags it across the child's head amidst wails of protest. Finished, the boy is bald except for a tiny mohawk of black hair down the centre.
Asking the women about details of their life, we are constantly reminded of their different perspective. While some elements of their lives might seem very much in common with our own (weddings, funerals), all it takes is the simple question of their age to bring our differences to light. While one girl knew that she was 30, the others had no idea.
Although many Himba have significant material wealth (200 cattle could fetch N$400,000), they live in simplicity. Owning little beside the clothing they wear and the cattle they drive, they are happy -- surviving in the past despite the world advancing around them.Turning to see the cause of the noise behind me, a young boy is dragging a goat for slaughter, the goat digging his hoofs into the ground, seemingly aware of his fate. The rest of the goats are held in a small square enclosure made from thick branches driven into the earth. Running across the dusty dry ground is a hen, five hatchlings in tow, hopping over the pebbles. 
All of the tradition aside, the Himba people are slowly adapting to the life in more developed regions. Some Himba people make the occasional journey to towns like Opuwo, some live within the town while others have never ventured outside their own settlement. Driving along the lengthy gravel roads between the villages and the town, one is constantly encountering a Himba in traditional garb motioning with their hand for you to stop. The young children are typically asking for sweets, while most others will ask to hitch a ride in your car. Even if your car is full of gear, no seats remaining, they will often peer through your window and point out space on top of your luggage at the back, or on the roof. Accepting, you should be prepared for the tough red ochre stains that will remind you long in the future of your generosity.While every girl and woman wears only a leather loin cloth and a variety of handmade accessories, the men are often seen in printed fabric "lap" (printed cloth worn around their waist), while others also wear T-shirts typically depicting some outdated logo or slogan.
Calvin & Sharon
photo: Janin Klemenčič
(to be continued)
