between Gabon and Congo

In The Footsteps Of Jurgen Schultz
"But you must know Mr. Jurgen, he is your brother”, said the immigration officer excitedly. I was led into a thatched hut where a large ledger was opened in front of me “Voila”, said the officer, pointing to an entry on one of the pages.
It was true. Jurgen Schultz, nationality — German; mode of transport — foot, had, indeed, crossed the border between Gabon and the People's Republic of the Congo. But what connection did this have to me, standing in the same place, nearly three years later?
I looked down at the ledger again. It was a list of all non-African border crossers.
There were no entries between Jurgen's name and my own, which was now being inscribed. “Ah, yes,” I nodded, “Mr. Jurgen.”
This wasn't the first indication of the remoteness of my location I had received.
Traffic had become increasingly scarce since my departure from Libreville, the Gabonese capital, four days earlier. Although I was on the main international route between West and Equatorial Africa, I had waited all day for the vehicle which brought me to the border. Now, I faced a 20 kilometre walk to the first Congolese town.
David Bennett
to be continued

Vintgar Gorge, Bled

Shaped over the millennia by the raging waters of the River Radovna, the Vintgar Gorge slices through 1.6 km (one mile) of the Boršt and Hom hills in northwestern Slovenia.
First discovered in 1891, the narrow, winding river gorge was then impenetrable thanks to the vertical erosion of the limestone rock, but two years later a sandy trail and wooden pathways were built along the canyon length to open up its awesome waterfalls, icy cold pools and boiling rapids to visitors as it repeatedly crosses the river.
A stone arch of the Bohinj railway bridge, constructed in 1906 is hanging 33.5 meters above the river.
The trail ends at the impressive Šum waterfall, spewing 16 meters into a pool at the head of the gorge. From Šum , walkers can retrace their steps along the gorge or make a circular tour towards the east, walking over the peak of Hom, past the pilgrim church of St Catherine and on down to Bled.
Vintgar has become a magnet for adrenaline‐fueled whitewater rafters.

Practical information:
The gorge is open daily in April to November from 8am to 7pm.
Admission adults €4, children €2.
Gorje, near Bled. Vintgar Gorge is 4 kilometers north of Bled and accessed by bus from the main bus station, by car or on foot in about an hour.

Planica and Kranjska Gora

Avoid mass tourism for a day and visit the famous mountain resort Kranjska Gora and Planica valley, in the middle of Julian Alps, right on boarder with Austria and Italy.

Enjoy these stunnings views of the Julian Alps and the picturesque natural surroundings in Kranjska Gora and also visit Planica valley, where the finals in ski jumping World Cup take place every March.

Kranjska Gora, where you can enjoy the fresh alpine air and the stunning views of a mountain range, called the Julian Alps. Kranjska Gora is a picturesque alpine town under mountains, where you can feel pure nature and enjoy a day away from madding crowds.

You will be able to visit the peaceful lake Jasna in the vicinity of Kranjska Gora.
The modern  Planica Nordic Centre is transformed into a ski jumping venue during winter, where the world famous finals are held annually.

There you will have the opportunity to fly over the world highest ski jump with the help of the most spectacular zip line.

In addition, you can also visit the Planica Museum, dedicated to the history of ski jumping. At the end of the day you will return to Bled full of wonderful memories.

Wau 3 Beyond Description


No one else did, but then, since the train was still sitting in the station the next morning, this was understandable.
Around 7 a.m. eight Sudanese who also had the wisdom to travel second-class crowded into our compartment, and the train chugged out of the station.
Although initially annoyed about the overbooking of second class, we were pleased with our choice when we saw the conditions in the third and fourth classes. Third class consisted of a carriage filled with wooden benches. The benches were jammed, and every square inch of floor space was also covered with squatting people and their luggage. The luggage racks were filled with children. Fourth class, a cattle car, was beyond description.
The corridors of the second-class carriages were crammed with people, making passage impossible.
David

to be continued

Slow Train To Wau

It's a lot more fun than walking. But not much faster.
The Wau (pronounced "wow") Express covers the 480 km of track between Babanusa and Wau, Sudan in a little over three days.
"When," the reader may ask, "will I ever have to take the Wau Express?" The answer is probably never, unless you are prone to seasickness, detest mosquitoes and are in a "hurry" to get from Khartoum to Juba overland on the way to Nairobi. In that case, the two-to three-week riverboat journey up the Nile to Juba is out, and the Wau Express is for you.
Actually, the train trip is only a small part of the journey to Juba. After you reach Wau, a small town in the middle of nowhere - i.e., southwestern Sudan - you still face a five-day truck ride to Juba. Before it you have to get from Khartoum to Babanusa. This is accomplished by taking a fairly comfortable and punctual train from Khartoum, via Kosti.
by David W. Bennett
(to be continued)

Lipica Stud Farm, origin of the Lipizzan horse


The Lipica Stud Farm is one of the oldest stud farms in the world and it represents the origin of the Lipizzan horse. In a unique natural environment, in the middle of fairy meadows and in the shade of oak and chestnut trees, you will find beautiful white horses which will certainly enchant you.
Taking a walk on the stud farm estate is like traveling through history. The old manor house and the gracefulness of the Lipizzan horse will take you to the time when horse carriages were the most prominent way of transport.
For more than 400 years the tradition of breeding these white horses has been preserved in the center of the unique Karst landscape which today represents one of the most beautiful natural and cultural monuments in Slovenia. On your trip, experience the world of the Lipizzan horse, walk through the stable, and visit the Lipikum Museum dedicated to various aspects of the stud and the Lipizzan breed.

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Portorož & St. Bernardin

Feel like a long walk along the beautiful Slovenian coast?
Don't worry, if you feel the promenade is too long, you can easily take a local bus part of the way. 
Portorož, Bernardin and Piran are the centre of an incredible part of the Mediterranean on the western coast of the Istrian peninsula. 

Portorož (Port of Roses), a city with a holiday atmosphere, lies in a leeward bay and has a very pleasant climate due to its proximity to the sea. 

Bernardin resort is situated by the sea, along the popular promenade Between Portoroz and Piran. 

The neighbouring, ancient city of Piran is one of the most beautiful Mediterranean cities and one of the best preserved historic cities in Europe.






Namibia 5 Himba - red ochre stains


A young child, only one year old, runs to me and lies down across my leg, ready to sleep. My khaki pants and shirt now covered in bright red paint, drool and other treats, the mom picks him up and cuts his hair. Restraining him forcefully across her lap, she takes a dry razor blade and drags it across the child's head amidst wails of protest. Finished, the boy is bald except for a tiny mohawk of black hair down the centre.

Asking the women about details of their life, we are constantly reminded of their different perspective. While some elements of their lives might seem very much in common with our own (weddings, funerals), all it takes is the simple question of their age to bring our differences to light. While one girl knew that she was 30, the others had no idea.
Although many Himba have significant material wealth (200 cattle could fetch N$400,000), they live in simplicity. Owning little beside the clothing they wear and the cattle they drive, they are happy -- surviving in the past despite the world advancing around them.Turning to see the cause of the noise behind me, a young boy is dragging a goat for slaughter, the goat digging his hoofs into the ground, seemingly aware of his fate. The rest of the goats are held in a small square enclosure made from thick branches driven into the earth. Running across the dusty dry ground is a hen, five hatchlings in tow, hopping over the pebbles.
All of the tradition aside, the Himba people are slowly adapting to the life in more developed regions. Some Himba people make the occasional journey to towns like Opuwo, some live within the town while others have never ventured outside their own settlement. Driving along the lengthy gravel roads between the villages and the town, one is constantly encountering a Himba in traditional garb motioning with their hand for you to stop. The young children are typically asking for sweets, while most others will ask to hitch a ride in your car. Even if your car is full of gear, no seats remaining, they will often peer through your window and point out space on top of your luggage at the back, or on the roof. Accepting, you should be prepared for the tough red ochre stains that will remind you long in the future of your generosity.
While every girl and woman wears only a leather loin cloth and a variety of handmade accessories, the men are often seen in printed fabric "lap" (printed cloth worn around their waist), while others also wear T-shirts typically depicting some outdated logo or slogan.
Calvin & Sharon 
photo: Janin Klemenčič
(to be continued)



Namibia 4 Himba fighting

Himba men are known for their fierce fighting; their wooden sticks or machetes carried everywhere. Even in the dusty town of Opuwo, men carry their weapons daily in preparation for fight. Confrontation often breaks out over theft of cattle, division of cattle between siblings and rape; but even small verbal disagreements can trigger these life or death matches. If you kill someone in a fight you must give the deceased's family 37 cattle, only 8 if you maim or injure. It is hard to understand what little value is placed on one's life.
The chief shows me his arm which has a large weeping wound, caused when he fell from his cattle earlier in the day. Putting on some latex gloves I applied ointment, gauze and a tensor bandage for him and did my best to explain how to redress the wound. Unfortunately I must have put on the bandage a little tight as he returned later with a bluish arm and motioned for me to fix it. Oops!
Calvin & Sharon
photo: Janin Klemenčič
(to be continued) 

Namibia 3 Himba's attire


They are incredibly efficient with water, able to feed a family for several days on a litre of water.

The morning ritual for the women starts with a cleansing and the application of the bright red ochre powder (derived of rocks from Ruacana) with butter. Acting as a natural moisturizer, the coating lasts for days and gives the bare-chested Himba their striking appearance.

 Hair and jewellery play an important part of the Himba's attire, indicating one's marital status and puberty. Males wear a thick necklace made from loops of shell and a black tarry mixture of manure and ochre. These necklaces, over an inch thick, are donned as a young child, worn for life and must never be removed. Similarly, women wear tall anklets made from metal beads and fabric, again never to be removed. Young girls have hair matted down with ochre and butterfat into long braids hanging down in front of their faces or wound into two horn-like bumps with animal hide.
A nearby pile of ten cattle skulls, surrounded by stones, marks the grave of a once prominent member of their group. Flies constantly settle on my face, and I grow tired of waving them away.
Calvin & Sharon
photo: Janin Klemenčič
(to be continued) 

Namibia 2 Himba settlement




We approach a settlement with three small homes and a larger one for the holy fire. The homes are usually built from mopane branches stacked like a tent, which are pasted with cattle manure, creating a solid orange-red home, dry even during the rainy season.
Greeting a young Himba girl in the native tongue, we ask her for the chief. She points off into the distance and calls out. Sometime later, a young man approaches, wearing a blue mesh shirt, red print cloth and shoes cleverly fashioned from a discarded tire. After the traditional exchange of greetings, we ask him if we could enter their settlement and visit. Agreeing, we make an offer of a 10kg bag of mealie maize, the staple of their diet. One must never enter a Himba settlement without first talking to the chief or the chief of the holy fire (if one exists).
Life is simple in the settlement, though entails hard work. Their worth is dictated wholly by the size of their cattle herd, some amounting to as many as 200. Walking great distances (up to 50km a day), they must walk far to gather water or round up their herd.
Calvin & Sharon
photo: Janin Klemenčič
(to be continued)

Namibia - The Himba



This last week has been incredible. One of those moments that open up your eyes to life outside one's own.
Making our journey north as far as the border with Angola, we found ourselves in the land of the indigenous Himba people. With hundreds of kilometres of rough dirt roads seeing very few people ever passing, one must come prepared: a week's worth of water and food. Getting punctures is easy; getting stuck without help for days could be disastrous. With the isolation comes the preservation of local culture.
As we see three young Himba girls at the side of a nearby settlement their striking appearance gives an immediate sense of timeless existence.
The Himba are one of the last remaining hunter gatherer groups in Africa. Until 20 years ago, many of them still hunted with stone implements. Without any real land entitlement, they are nomadic, settling in temporary homes for a few months before moving on. When the earth is no longer ripe for cattle and crops, they pack up their few possessions and walk as far as necessary to find fresh land.
Calvin & Sharon
photo: Janin Klemenčič
(to be continued)